Saturday night brought on a pretty amazing thunderstorm. I really miss those storms. They're reminiscent of a Texas thunderstorm with the loud thunder and lighting and heavy rains. But the rain falls straight down, which allowed us to leave our windows open. (This wasn't a big deal at first, but towards the end of the trip, our room was getting pretty stanky. So good ventilation was a MUST). We didn't really think much of it until the next morning when Shane walked up in a suit, wearing high water rubber boots and a rain parka. He came bearing news that the road to get out of camp was now a free flowing river and that 2 cars full of wedding attendees were stuck in it. So Victoria, Yonas and I loaded up with Shane, along with Aberra (the groom) and some other folks that were looking for rides to the church. Along the way to pull the 2 cars out, we also ran into another car whose battery died. But we had to prioritize and wished them good luck as we drove past. Once we came upon the 2 cars (a land cruiser and a mini-van), we realized they were REALLY stuck, as in they were bottoming out on the road that was now just a path of flooded potholes. Some places, the water came up to my knees. (The thought had crossed my mind to question what might be floating in the water, which is now bathing my legs and filling my sandals with sediment. But I decided it best I know think too long, lest I vomit at the options.) The cool thing about this event was that as I stood on the banks of the former road, I looked around at the crowd that had amassed. The young and old, rich and poor, Americans and Ethiopians, naked and suits...we were all there trying to help. It truly was an entire village rallying together. The best part was that I could look across the river and see a couple naked children standing beside a man in a suit and tie, standing beside a boy with a suit jacket and no pants, sitting beside a boy with a sweater on, standing beside a white guy in a suit and tie and parka and rain boots, standing beside an Ethiopian with a machette in his hands. It was such a great mix! After a couple of hours, an extra landcruise, some metal cables, a walk through a cow pasture (aka lake of poo-water), and Yoni almost falling into the river in his suit, we got the 2 cars out. How they managed to get to the church, I'm still not clear on, but mission accomplished. Now on to the wedding festivities...a couple hours late.
Ethiopia weddings aren't quite like the western weddings that we're used to. They are ALL DAY celebrations. And I mean CELEBRATIONS. The bride and groom go to separate locations and they have some kind of service/celebration there and a meal. So we started off with Aberra at the Langano church. We were a little late, so people were a little frazzled waiting for Shane and Yonas to come back from finishing up with the river situation. It wasn't too bad, but Victoria, on the video camera, and I didn't know what was going on, nor could we understand anything that anyone was saying. Once shane and Yoni got there, everyone loaded into the vehicles. V and I got to sit in the back of the truck that was leading the way. Our job was to document the entire trip, which we thought would SURELY be less than 2 hours. Wrong. For the first 30 minutes or so, we did the best we could to detail the 8 or so trucks driving in a line, honking horns, singing, yelling, etc. But given the horrid condition of the road, a lot of our time was spent trying not to lose a rib when the truck bed decided to jump at us.
Along the way, we came upon another little township with a ditch going through it. Our truck, being the lead, crossed over the small land bridge that lead to the other side. Once across, however, one of the town folk started digging up the bridge, much to the dismay of the passengers in the cab of our truck. So they ran out after him and threw the guy down. This started quite the commotion. While I'm sure it was a tense situation for them, V and I were stuck, by ourselves, in the back of a truck, with lots of expensive equipment, cut off from anyone else that spoke English and being surrounded more and more by the townspeople wanting our stuff, all the while a little scuffle is going on about 30 yards from us. I was pretty nervous just for us westerners. I'm not sure what happened that allowed the rest of the trucks to pass through (I think one of the missionaries paid someone off), but once Shane and his car arrived, we wanted nothing more than to jump inside his safe-haven-on-wheels. It helped that our driver in the truck told V that she was pregnant and didn't need to be riding in the back of a truck. Then we were back on our way.
I wish I could detail out the scenery of the drive to where the bride was. It was absolutely breathtaking. I would love to have a little cottage out underneath the 60ft canopy of forrest. But this blog is already getting too long. So I'll recap the rest of the drive like this: Groom's car ran out of gas; V and I get back into the truck bed to document the arrival of the party, Mulatu (preacher) is singing and dancing and preaching to the public from the same truck bed we're in, then almost falls out when the truck moves abruptly. A local boy shows us how to get to the bride's house, then begins to hit on V and puts his arm around her. As the trip leader, I felt it my responsibility to step in and let the boy know that I owned her. That seemed to work.
Some of you may be wondering: What about the rest of the team? Well, I would love to tell you that Justin gave a message at the Langano church and they saw healings, the dead being raised to life, and 5000 souls coming to know the Lord. But I think the wedding pulled most of the congregation, so our team of 9 out numbered the 5 church attendees (including the translator). But from what I hear, Justin still brought the Word. After the service, the team got to work on making a bouquet, making the cake, and other wedding prep type stuff.
Anyways, once we arrived at the compound where Adonis (the bride) was, the 'band' showed up. Frainish (one of the nurses) and her drum led a procession of singers and dancers that escorted in the groom to a seating area in front of some older gentlemen (the bride's father and his gang, I suppose). There was a giving of dowry (lotta clothes and jewelry), a meeting of the 2 souls, some awkward pictures, then the feasting began...a memory forever scarred into my soul....
It's a sign of honor to be hand fed by someone in their culture. So I gave Otto Bruhanu (former camp director at Langano) a Gorsha. Evidently it was too small b/c Nico (one of the other guys we rode with) explained to me it had to be a big piece and proceeded to shove a fist sized piece of injera (imagine really sour crepes) and dorawat (meat and sauce) down my mouth. But "1 gorsha is for acquaintances, 2 is for friends, 3 is for family." So as soon as I swallowed the first massive handful, I found another one coming at me. And it's insulting to turn a gorsha down, so I just had to take it. Unfortunately, my gag reflexes didn't like it and a few pieces of injera came flying out from my clenching lips and through my nose. Everyone else had a good laugh. I think a little piece of me died inside. Thank God for Fanta Orange to help wash it down.
Well, after that, I don't remember much. There was an exchanging of rings, kissing of the elders, using an overflowing squatty potty, more dancing and singing, then a 2 hour drive back to Langano, but this time, with the whole bridal party. Once back at the compound, the band got out and did a little ditty around our car with Aberra and Adonis in it. And more dancing (including the graceful moves of Shane) escorted them into the meeting hall for another ceremony, officiated by Mulatu, and more eating. One of the cool things that they did, though, is the giving of gifts was a celebration as well. It was a way to honor the bride and groom. Then they cut the cake outside, after spraying confetti and silly string all over it, and the party really began. There was a good sized bonfire and the band started beating out some funky beats for the whole crew to get jiggy wid it. I didn't partake, however, Justin and Amanda got in the circle and pulled out some moves that made them famous around the surrounding areas.
All in all, it was the most amazing wedding any of us have ever been a part of, despite the atrocities that occurred on my gag reflex. I took a freezing cold shower that night and tried to get some rest amidst the nightmares of more gorshas. Up to this point, we've had 3 days in Ethiopia, and already we've been tossed into the fire of Ethiopian culture...and we're loving every minute of it. Sorry for the long post...it was a long day...
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